Upgrade Set for Easy Edge Asian Knife Sharpener by Wusthof

The most common length for a chef's knife is 20 cm (8 inches), which is perfect for most kitchen tasks. However, the ideal choice depends on several factors: Hand size: Smaller hands handle 16–18 cm blades more comfortably, while larger hands may prefer a 21–25 cm blade. Personal habits: Those who favor broad movements and long cuts might lean toward longer knives; those who prioritize precision or work in tight spaces might prefer a shorter blade. Experience level: Beginners tend to choose shorter, more manageable blades, while professionals often prefer 21 or 24 cm knives for greater efficiency. In short, there is no “perfect” size for everyone — the right length should be chosen based on comfort, control, and intended use.

Avoid keeping them loose in drawers, where they can get damaged or become a safety hazard. It’s better to use a wooden block, magnetic strip, or blade guard. You can find the right solution in our catalog.

Yes, in our ecommerce store you will find only professional and high-quality chef knives. Each model is selected to meet the needs of chefs, cooks, and cooking enthusiasts who seek reliable, sharp, and durable tools. We offer a complete range of professional kitchen knives, ideal for precision cutting, meat, fish, vegetables, and much more. You will find slicing knives, santoku, paring knives, and other models commonly used in professional kitchens. We collaborate only with brands recognized at the professional level, such as [e.g., Victorinox, Global, Kai, F. Dick, Ambrogio Sanelli, Wüsthof, etc.], to offer you the best in performance and safety in the kitchen

It’s highly discouraged. High heat and aggressive detergents can damage both blade and handle. Knives can also knock against other items, dulling the edge.

Hardness refers to how resistant the steel is, measured on the Rockwell scale (HRC). The harder the steel, the better it retains its edge—but it’s also more brittle and prone to chipping.

Blades can be made of stainless steel (rust-resistant), carbon steel (very sharp but delicate), or ceramic (lightweight and razor-sharp but fragile). Premium knives often use Damascus steel or advanced alloys. Not sure which to choose? Contact us—AFcoltellerie has them all.

Handles can be made of wood (classic but delicate), plastic (durable and hygienic), or technical materials like micarta or G-10, which are extremely tough and non-slip even when wet.

A 20 cm chef’s knife is the most versatile option to start with. Paired with a paring knife, it covers most everyday kitchen needs.

The grooves or “granton edge” reduce friction and prevent food from sticking to the blade. They’re especially useful with wet or soft foods like fish, cheese, or vegetables.

Yes. Some single-bevel Japanese knives are made specifically for right- or left-handed use. Many universal knives, with a double bevel, work well for both.

European knives are sturdier, with thick, curved blades for rocking cuts and tough ingredients. Japanese knives have thinner, harder blades for clean, precise slicing—but they’re also more fragile. In short: Europeans are durable and versatile, Japanese are sharp and surgical.

A sharp knife is safer and more efficient: it requires less force and delivers precise cuts. A dull blade can slip and increase the risk of accidents.

It depends on how often you use them and the type of blade. Generally, regular honing with a honing steel is recommended, along with deeper sharpening every few months or when the knife loses effectiveness.

A honing steel maintains the edge and prolongs the life of the knife, but it doesn’t actually sharpen. To restore the edge, you need a sharpener (manual, electric, or whetstone). The ideal routine is to use both: the honing steel for daily care, the sharpener for periodic maintenance.

A smooth steel realigns the edge without removing metal. A grooved one has a slightly abrasive action, taking off a small amount of material. A ceramic steel is gentler and suitable even for hard blades like Japanese knives.

Hold the steel vertically and draw the blade across both sides at a 15–20° angle using light, steady strokes. Just a few passes are enough to maintain the edge.

Almost all types, but be careful with serrated or ceramic blades: they require specific tools or techniques. Always check the manufacturer's guidelines or ask us for advice.

It's a tool with a preset angle: you rest or draw the blade through a slot, and the abrasive always works at the same inclination. You don't need to learn to hold the angle by hand, so it suits anyone who wants consistent results quickly, at home or in a kitchen where several people share the same knives. The trade-off is less control than a stone.

For anyone who sharpens a lot of knives on a regular basis: butcher shops, charcuterie workshops, restaurant and hotel kitchens, canteens and resellers. The category includes professional machines for heavy use, such as the Dick models, and semi-professional machines such as the Tormek T-2 or compact belt sharpeners, which suit smaller kitchens or serious home cooks. Compared with hand-held sharpeners, they work faster and handle larger volumes.

Manual sharpeners, with ceramic wheels or crossed rods, are compact and quiet and remove little metal, which makes them right for regular maintenance. Electric sharpeners work faster and can also restore badly worn blades, but they remove more steel, so use them when the knife needs it rather than every time. If you sharpen many knives every day, you'll find professional machines in the Sharpening machines category.

Belt machines use a replaceable abrasive belt: they remove metal quickly, and you change grit by changing the belt. Wheel machines use abrasive wheels, often with separate stations for sharpening and polishing. Water cooling stops the blade from overheating while it is being sharpened: too much heat can damage the steel's temper and shorten edge life. That makes it important on machines that run for long periods at high speed.

Many models have two or three stages with different grits. The first, coarser one rebuilds the edge; the last, finer one refines it and evens it out. For a knife in good condition, the fine stage is often enough to bring the edge back. Use the coarse stage only when the blade is genuinely worn, because it removes the most metal.

Start with how many knives you sharpen and how often, then the types of blade (boning, chef's, Japanese, butcher's knives), and finally the space and power supply available. Also check which spare parts and consumables exist for the model, such as belts, wheels and guides, and what they cost over time: they are part of the real cost of the machine.

It depends on the sharpener's angle. Many Japanese knives have a more acute edge than Western ones, and a sharpener set to a wider angle changes it with every pass. Some models work at specific angles, such as the 15° common on many Asian blades; others have separate slots for the two blade types. The working angle is listed on each product page: compare it with your knife's. Single-bevel knives such as deba and yanagiba should be sharpened on a stone.

No. Each machine is designed for certain angles, thicknesses and blade types. Very thin or very hard Japanese blades, single-bevel knives and serrated blades may need a specific model or a different system. Some machines offer dedicated accessories, such as kits for Asian blades or scissor-sharpening jigs. Compatible blades are listed on each machine's product page.

Not with most wheel sharpeners: the slots are designed for a plain edge and can damage the teeth. Some models explicitly state that they handle serrated blades; if the product page doesn't say so, don't use it on this type of knife.

For Dick machines, especially the SM-110 and SM-111, the catalogue includes a wide range of spare parts: grinding assemblies, guides, water trays, drive belts, seals and screws. Each part carries a position number (for example "Pos. 560") that matches the exploded diagram in the user manual: the safest way to order the right part is to check that number against your machine model. Replacement abrasive belts for the SM-100 and diamond wheels for the Tormek T-2 are also available.

Place the sharpener on a stable surface and draw the blade through from heel to tip without pressing down: the abrasive does the work, not force. Follow the manufacturer's number of passes and order of stages, and don't saw back and forth unless the instructions say so. Afterwards, rinse and dry the blade to remove metal particles before using it on food.

Read the manual before first use and set guides and guards as instructed. While working, guide the blade without forcing it: too much pressure removes more steel than necessary and heats the edge. At the end of the day, clean the machine, emptying the water trays and collecting metal residue, and check belts and wheels regularly: a worn abrasive works unevenly and should be replaced.