KAI Diamond grindstone Grain 3000 with small basin

The most common length for a chef's knife is 20 cm (8 inches), which is perfect for most kitchen tasks. However, the ideal choice depends on several factors: Hand size: Smaller hands handle 16–18 cm blades more comfortably, while larger hands may prefer a 21–25 cm blade. Personal habits: Those who favor broad movements and long cuts might lean toward longer knives; those who prioritize precision or work in tight spaces might prefer a shorter blade. Experience level: Beginners tend to choose shorter, more manageable blades, while professionals often prefer 21 or 24 cm knives for greater efficiency. In short, there is no “perfect” size for everyone — the right length should be chosen based on comfort, control, and intended use.

Avoid keeping them loose in drawers, where they can get damaged or become a safety hazard. It’s better to use a wooden block, magnetic strip, or blade guard. You can find the right solution in our catalog.

Yes, in our ecommerce store you will find only professional and high-quality chef knives. Each model is selected to meet the needs of chefs, cooks, and cooking enthusiasts who seek reliable, sharp, and durable tools. We offer a complete range of professional kitchen knives, ideal for precision cutting, meat, fish, vegetables, and much more. You will find slicing knives, santoku, paring knives, and other models commonly used in professional kitchens. We collaborate only with brands recognized at the professional level, such as [e.g., Victorinox, Global, Kai, F. Dick, Ambrogio Sanelli, Wüsthof, etc.], to offer you the best in performance and safety in the kitchen

It’s highly discouraged. High heat and aggressive detergents can damage both blade and handle. Knives can also knock against other items, dulling the edge.

Hardness refers to how resistant the steel is, measured on the Rockwell scale (HRC). The harder the steel, the better it retains its edge—but it’s also more brittle and prone to chipping.

Blades can be made of stainless steel (rust-resistant), carbon steel (very sharp but delicate), or ceramic (lightweight and razor-sharp but fragile). Premium knives often use Damascus steel or advanced alloys. Not sure which to choose? Contact us—AFcoltellerie has them all.

Handles can be made of wood (classic but delicate), plastic (durable and hygienic), or technical materials like micarta or G-10, which are extremely tough and non-slip even when wet.

A 20 cm chef’s knife is the most versatile option to start with. Paired with a paring knife, it covers most everyday kitchen needs.

The grooves or “granton edge” reduce friction and prevent food from sticking to the blade. They’re especially useful with wet or soft foods like fish, cheese, or vegetables.

Yes. Some single-bevel Japanese knives are made specifically for right- or left-handed use. Many universal knives, with a double bevel, work well for both.

European knives are sturdier, with thick, curved blades for rocking cuts and tough ingredients. Japanese knives have thinner, harder blades for clean, precise slicing—but they’re also more fragile. In short: Europeans are durable and versatile, Japanese are sharp and surgical.

A sharp knife is safer and more efficient: it requires less force and delivers precise cuts. A dull blade can slip and increase the risk of accidents.

It depends on how often you use them and the type of blade. Generally, regular honing with a honing steel is recommended, along with deeper sharpening every few months or when the knife loses effectiveness.

A honing steel maintains the edge and prolongs the life of the knife, but it doesn’t actually sharpen. To restore the edge, you need a sharpener (manual, electric, or whetstone). The ideal routine is to use both: the honing steel for daily care, the sharpener for periodic maintenance.

A smooth steel realigns the edge without removing metal. A grooved one has a slightly abrasive action, taking off a small amount of material. A ceramic steel is gentler and suitable even for hard blades like Japanese knives.

Hold the steel vertically and draw the blade across both sides at a 15–20° angle using light, steady strokes. Just a few passes are enough to maintain the edge.

Almost all types, but be careful with serrated or ceramic blades: they require specific tools or techniques. Always check the manufacturer's guidelines or ask us for advice.

A stone removes steel from the edge and rebuilds it. It gives more control than any other method: your hand sets the angle, not a fixed slot, so it works on Western and Japanese knives and on different thicknesses and profiles. It takes some practice, but it also wastes the least steel, because you only work where the edge needs it.

The KAI ACCESSORIES series brings together tools designed to support every stage of kitchen work: from ingredient preparation — with utensils such as peelers and tongs — to blade care, thanks to sharpening stones developed to KAI's exacting standards. Each accessory is crafted with the same attention to quality and functionality that defines the brand's entire range.

Grit measures how fine the abrasive is: the higher the number, the finer the stone. Below #400, stones are used to repair small chips or a badly damaged edge; between #800 and #1500 is where the actual sharpening happens; from #3000 upwards, stones refine and polish the edge. For a first stone, a 1000/3000 or 1000/6000 combination stone is the most versatile starting point.

It is suitable for both professionals and cooking enthusiasts who want to complete their kitchen kit with reliable, precise and long-lasting tools that integrate seamlessly with KAI knives.

Water stones are the most common choice for kitchen knives: they cut quickly and work with a film of water that carries away the residue. Some need soaking before use, others only need wetting on the surface; each stone's product page says which. Oil stones cut more slowly and need the lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Diamond stones remove steel very quickly, stay flat for a long time and also suit very hard steels.

Preparation utensils such as peelers and tongs are designed for intensive daily use, while sharpening stones are ideal for those who want to keep their blades in optimal condition over time, with precise edge control.

The knife's original one. As a rough guide, many Western knives are sharpened at 15 to 20° per side and many Japanese knives at 10 to 15°, but the exact figure depends on the model and should be checked against the manufacturer's specifications. Holding the angle steady through every stroke matters more than hitting an exact number: a wobbling angle rounds the edge. A clip-on guide on the spine helps in the first sessions.

Kitchen utensils should be cleaned after each use, and hand washing is recommended to preserve the materials. Sharpening stones require thorough rinsing after use and should be stored dry; some types need to be soaked before use — always follow the specific product instructions.

As you work one side, a thin burr forms on the opposite side. You can feel it by gently drawing a fingertip across the edge, from the spine outwards, never along it. Once the burr runs the full length of the blade, switch sides, then move to finer grits to reduce it. A well-finished edge slices a sheet of paper cleanly, without tearing it.

Rinse it after use and let it air-dry away from direct heat; don't put it back in its box while damp. Over time the surface wears hollow in the middle, and on a stone that is no longer flat you can't hold a steady angle: a flattening stone brings it back to flat. It also helps to keep stones of different grits apart, because coarse grit residue scratches the work of a fine stone.

The KAI series stands out for the combination of Japanese tradition and modern manufacturing, providing reliable knives for conscious and precise kitchen use.

It is suitable for professionals and advanced enthusiasts seeking consistent performance and quality.

It is ideal for everyday preparation and precise cutting tasks.