It's a tool with a preset angle: you rest or draw the blade through a slot, and the abrasive always works at the same inclination. You don't need to learn to hold the angle by hand, so it suits anyone who wants consistent results quickly, at home or in a kitchen where several people share the same knives. The trade-off is less control than a stone.
Manual or electric?
Manual sharpeners, with ceramic wheels or crossed rods, are compact and quiet and remove little metal, which makes them right for regular maintenance. Electric sharpeners work faster and can also restore badly worn blades, but they remove more steel, so use them when the knife needs it rather than every time. If you sharpen many knives every day, you'll find professional machines in the Sharpening machines category.
What do the different stages mean?
Many models have two or three stages with different grits. The first, coarser one rebuilds the edge; the last, finer one refines it and evens it out. For a knife in good condition, the fine stage is often enough to bring the edge back. Use the coarse stage only when the blade is genuinely worn, because it removes the most metal.
Is it suitable for Japanese knives?
It depends on the sharpener's angle. Many Japanese knives have a more acute edge than Western ones, and a sharpener set to a wider angle changes it with every pass. Some models work at specific angles, such as the 15° common on many Asian blades; others have separate slots for the two blade types. The working angle is listed on each product page: compare it with your knife's. Single-bevel knives such as deba and yanagiba should be sharpened on a stone.
Can I sharpen serrated knives?
Not with most wheel sharpeners: the slots are designed for a plain edge and can damage the teeth. Some models explicitly state that they handle serrated blades; if the product page doesn't say so, don't use it on this type of knife.
How do I get a good result?
Place the sharpener on a stable surface and draw the blade through from heel to tip without pressing down: the abrasive does the work, not force. Follow the manufacturer's number of passes and order of stages, and don't saw back and forth unless the instructions say so. Afterwards, rinse and dry the blade to remove metal particles before using it on food.